Control of Spider Mites

The twospotted spider mite, a natural enemy of the bougainvillea. Image by unh.edu

The webspinning two-spotted spider mite occasionally makes their home on bougainvillea. To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny moving dots. Adult females, the largest forms, are less than 1/20 inch long. Check the undersides of leaves for mites, their eggs, and webbing; you will need a hand lens to identify them.

Chemical Contol
Spider mites frequently become a problem after the application of insecticides. Such outbreaks are commonly a result of the insecticide killing off the natural enemies of the mites, but also occur when certain insecticides stimulate mite reproduction.

Natural Control
Cleaning around the plant is your best solution. Debris tends to collect at the base of plants, and this is where the adults lay their eggs. Some larva may also “winter over” in this debris. Removing leaves and other debris from around plants is an excellent method for controlling them.  Weeding provides an alternate food source for pests, so areas around plants should be weeded and mulched.

Factors to Consider when Caring for Bougainvillea

Pruning and pinching is an important technique for bougainvillea growth. Image by bgi-usa.com

Environment

1. Light

Bougainvillea prefer full sunlight and like to be kept outside in the sun or indoors where an adequate amount of sunlight available. Some harsher areas, such as desert-like environments, can be a bit tough on the plant, so make sure to be careful. If the plant does not receive enough sunlight, it will grow without any leaves.

2. Water

Water drainage is essential for bougainvillea, as roots kept in damp and moist soil can potentially grow fungus. However, it is important to water the plant (link to watering bonsai page) consistently, especially when there is a lot of foliage on the plant.

3. Temperature

Bougainvillea are best kept above 40 degrees Fahrenheit; anything below this temperature must be monitored or moved to a warmer area. When pruning or potting, wait for a temperature of approximately 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Pruning

Pruning is advised to shape the plant as needed; however, caution must be taken to avoid damaging the plant. Pruning should not be done while the plant is dormant; the best time to prune is when it is healthy and in active growth. It can be reduced and cut to one or two leaves.

New branches can be trained to take shape on a wire, but older ones become thick and cannot be shaped without breaking. Except for formal upright (link to bonsai tree styles page), you can shape the viney plant whichever way possible.

5. Diseases & Insects

Bougainvillea are generally protected from all pests except aphids. The main cause of death for this plant is fungus, which forms on its roots due to overwatering. Also, keep a lookout for the usual garden pests.

Control of Thrips and white fly pests

Thrips are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings that cause discoloration and deformities on bougainvillea and other plants. Other common names for thrips include thunderflies, thunderbugs, storm flies and corn lice. Thrips are generally tiny (1 mm long or less) and are not good flyers, although they can be carried long distances by the wind. Thrips feed by piercing plant cells with their paired maxillary stylets, which form a feeding tube. Due to their small size, cryptophilic behavior, and high rate of reproduction, thrips are difficult to control using classical biological control. Only two families of parasitoid hymenoptera are known to hunt them, the Eulophidae and the Trichogrammatidae.

Whitefly

Whiteflies typically feed on the underside of plant leaves. White flies feed by tapping into the phloem of plants, exposing plants to the whiteflies’ toxic saliva and decreasing the plant’s overall turgor pressure. The damage is quickly elevated as whiteflies congregate in large numbers, quickly overwhelming susceptible plants. Damage is further exacerbated as whiteflies, like aphids, excrete honeydew as a waste product, which promotes mold growth. Whitefly control is difficult and complex, as they rapidly gain resistance to chemical pesticides. A major problem is the fact that the whiteflies and the viruses they carry can infect many different host plants. Use of yellow sticky traps to monitor infestations and only selective use of insecticides is advised.

Chemical Control of Pests

Bacillus thuringiensis (BT, or Dipel®) and neem-based biological insecticide products should are a good solution and should be effective on the loopers without harming other insects that may biologically control them. Insectical oils and soaps will not control caterpillars such as the looper. Most synthetic insecticides with labels permitting use against caterpillars on landscape ornamentals, such as carbaryl (Sevin®), will likely kill the bougainvillea looper, although these products are often destructive to beneficial insects as well. Spraying insecticides late in the evening is recommended. This is when the bougainvillea looper caterpillars and adult moths are active, and also when the beneficial insects are not likely to be active.

Leafminers: Moths, Flies, Beetles, Wasps

The vast majority of leaf-mining insects are moths (Lepidoptera) and flies (Diptera), though some beetles and wasps also exhibit this behavior. Although the types of insects differ, the damage they cause is very similar. Because of this, the larval stages of all insects which leaf mine are collectively and generically called “leaf miners”. All leaf miners will cause the leaves to look skeletonized, and to fall from the plant. Eventually they can kill the plant.

Natural Control of Pests

Examine your garden regularly for signs of aphids. Look for clusters of the little bugs on new growth as well as on the curled and twisted leaves.
While wearing gloves, remove the aphids by hand, or use a sharp stream of water to knock them off the plant.
Cut away and dispose of infested foliage.
Capture flying aphids by placing yellow sticky traps near infected plants.
Make a nontoxic pesticide by mixing 1 cup vegetable oil with 1 tablespoon liquid dish-washing soap. Add 1½ teaspoon solution per cup of warm water to a handheld spray bottle.
Hit the aphids directly with above mixture and spray entire plant thoroughly.
Introduce beneficial insects, such as ladybugs/ladybirds/ladybeetles, or green lacewings to your garden to feed on the aphids. Both can be bought from garden stores or online.
Avoid planting bougainvillea near aphid-attracting plants, such as birch trees, and instead grow plants such as white sweet clover, spearmint, sweet fennel and Queen Anne’s lace, which attract and house the lacewings, ladybugs and other insects that feed on aphids.
Rid your garden of ants. Ants love to eat the sugary sap (honeydew) secreted by aphids, and will “farm” the aphids, protecting them on the plant they eat.
Caterpillars; namely the Bougainvillea Looper Caterpillar

The bougainvillea looper is a green or brown caterpillar about 1 inch long. It is also called inchworm or measuring worm. The looper larva mimics stems and branches very well and feeds primarily at night, which is why you may see the damage but fail to find the culprit on the plant. The adult is a moth, a very fast flyer with a wingspan of about 1 inch. The moth does not feed on the foliage. Like the larva, it also is active at night, when it is believed to lay its eggs on the underside of bougainvillea leaves. Go out scouting very early in the morning or at night if you have a good strong flashlight. The bougainvillea looper feeds from the edges of the leaves, which results in severe scalloping of the foliage. Attacks begin on the young tender shoots and leaves before progressing down the stem. The insect will cause significant visual damage to bougainvillea, although this does not apparently result in the death of the plants.

Bougainvillea Pests & Diseases

A part of the bougainvillea’s appeal is that they are relatively disease and pest-free plants. It is NOT common for your bougainvillea to be affected by these pests and diseases if you follow BGI’s Rules for Care, and fertilize with Bougain® which contain a significant amount of micronutrients – vital for healthy, blooming bougainvillea. This page contains most (but not all) common pests/diseases that may affect your bougainvillea.

On the rare occurrences that your bougainvillea experiences pest problems or disease, always try the least toxic method of pest control as your first step. If you use chemical pesticides to control insect pests, you will also kill natural predators. If you choose a chemical control, follow directions and guidelines closely and always wear protective clothing and safety gear including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, neoprene gloves, goggles and a respirator. Chemical pesticides are not recommended for use inside the home.

Aphids

Known also as greenfly, black fly or plant lice, aphids are minute plant-feeding insects. Important natural enemies include the predatory ladybugs/ladybirds/lady beetles, and lacewings. Aphids are tiny, pear-shaped, sap-sucking pests, appearing in the spring to feast on your plants’ tender new leaves. They leave behind a secretion that attracts ants and promotes mold growth. Not to fear; you don’t have to resort to toxic chemicals to save your bougainvillea.

Tips For Growing Bougainvillea In Containers:

Bougainvillea is a hardy tropical vine that grows in areas where winter temperatures remain above 30 degrees F. (-1 C.). The plant usually produces three rounds of vibrant blooms in spring, summer and autumn. If you don’t have growing space or live in a suitable climate, you can plant bougainvillea in a pot. If you live in a chilly climate, bring potted bougainvillea plants indoors before the first frost. Bougainvillea for Pots Several bougainvillea varieties are suitable for growing in containers. “Miss Alice” is a shrubby, easily pruned variety with white blooms. “Bambino Baby Sophia,” which provides orange blooms, tops out at about 5 feet. If you like pink, consider “Rosenka” or “Singapore Pink,” which you can prune to maintain container size. Red varieties suitable for container growing include “La Jolla” or “Crimson Jewel.” “Oo-La-La”, with magenta-red blooms, is a dwarf variety that reaches heights of 18 inches. “Raspberry Ice” is another variety suitable for a container or hanging basket. If purple is your favorite color, “Vera Deep Purple” is a good choice. Growing Bougainvillea in Containers Bougainvillea performs well in a relatively small container where its roots are slightly restricted. When the plant is large enough for re-potting, move it to a container only one size larger. Use a regular potting soil without a high level of peat moss; too much peat retains moisture and may result in root rot. Any container used for growing bougainvillea must have at least one drainage hole. Install a trellis or support at planting time; installing one later may damage the roots.

Care of Bougainvillea

Potting

Ideally, the plant should be grown in soil before being potted. The roots of bougainvillea are very brittle and thin when not developed, which makes it easy for them to break off during potting. It is best to wait until the branches are thick and the roots are strong enough to withstand moving before considering potting. The best time to move the plant to a pot is during late Spring when it is in rapid development. Otherwise, it might be difficult for the plant to recover and survive after transporting. Water the soil two days in advance and let it dry. After potting, the plant might lose some leaves, but they should begin to regrow quickly.

Planting bougainvillea in the soil before transferring it to a pot has another advantage: the trunk of the plant can grow thicker due to the lateral spread of the roots, which tend to go far distances. A pot is too confining for the early development of this vine. Generally, the longer the roots the thicker the plant’s trunk.

When choosing a pot, always opt for a larger size to provide the roots ample space to grow and thrive. Choose a glazed color pot to create color contrast with the exquisite leaves of the plant, or place it in an unglazed pot to give the plant a rich, earthy look and feel. Also, remember to use pots that have sufficient drainage and moisture retaining qualities for optimum growth.

Soil

Organic fertilizer rich in nitrogen is the preferred choice for bougainvilleas because they require high amounts of nitrogen to grow their beautifully colored leaves. Bougainvilleas perform well with 40% of organic matter in the soil; the remaining matter may be agricultural pumice, coarse sand, decomposed granite, or a mixture of all of these.

Cultivation of Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea was spread across Europe after its discovery, cultivated in nurseries throughout different parts of the land. It was also later shipped to various colonies of England across different regions of the world. Categorized as tropical evergreens, bougainvilleas are often popular in warmer climates where they are grown all year round. In regions with colder winters or dropping temperatures, they tend to become fully deciduous or semi deciduous — seasonally losing their leaves and flowers.

Warmer climate regions where they are frequently found include: Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Pakistan, Taiwan, Vietnam, Aruba, Ethiopia, India, Turkey, Greece, Spain, Singapore, Cyprus, Central America, the Persian Gulf, Australia, southern and southwestern United States, the Caribbean, and the Mediterranean. Bougainvillea has also flourished since its transportation to other locations with warm climate in the world, becoming a “transplanted native” and spreading everywhere rapidly. For example, it grows wildly at some places in Southern California.

Bougainvillea can be picked up from local nurseries, or conveniently taken from the wild if available. They are easy to collect due to their shallow root system and can be replanted from a thick cutting with little effort

Background & History of Bougainvillea

Louis Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811), French explorer. Image by wikipedia.org

Bougainvillea Bonsai is a genus of ornamental flowering plants that are native to South America — mainly Peru, Brazil, and Argentina. It is named after the French Navy Admiral, Louis Antoine de Bougainville. Bougainvillea was discovered in 1768 by Philibert Commerco, a French botanist, who accompanied Bougainville on a voyage to circumnavigate the globe.

These striking, woody vines climbing over rocks and trees are perfectly adaptable to a warm climate, where they can thrive all year long, provided there is enough rain. They can grow as tall as 12 meters, and have spiky horns that enable them to easily climb over nearby plants. Their colorful, petal-shaped leaves are their most stunning feature. The common observer may think that they are part of the flower; however, the actual flowers are the tiny structures in the center of the leaves known as bracts or colored leaves. The miniature flowers inside are yellow in color and provide a visual appeal against the brightly colored bracts. The species has been crossbred extensively, which explains the variety of colors it can be found in — shades of reds, deep purples, bright pinks, yellows, and whites.

There is a discrepancy in the classification of bougainvillea as experts have named anywhere from four to 18 species. However, most taxonomists recognize four species: Bougainvillea Glabra, Bougainvillea Spinosa, Bougainvillea Peruviana, and Bougainvillea Spectabilis. Bougainvillea Glabra, which is known as paper flower, is the most common and most widely cultivated.